Ada banyak jenis-jenis mesin jahit seperti Obras, overdack, rantai, satu jarum dll.

There are many types of sewing machines, such as overlock, overdack, chain stitch, single needle, and so on. 

Setelah kain dipola dan dipotong tentunya kamu harus mempersiapkan mesin jahit, agar proses jahit lancar tanpa harus mengganggu waktu kerja. Kali ini kita akan membahas salah satu dari keempat jenis mesin jahit yang biasa digunakan untuk usaha konveksi rumahan ataupun pabrik, yaitu jenis Obras.

After the fabric has been patterned and cut, you'll need to prepare the sewing machine to ensure the sewing process runs smoothly without interrupting work time. This time, we'll discuss one of the four types of sewing machines commonly used in home-based or factory-based garment businesses: the overlock.



Menggunakan Mesin Jahit Obras

Mesin obras ialah mesin berkecepatan tinggi yg berfungsi buat merapihkan pinggir busana dengan cara mengobras (overlock) dalam satu operasi. Mesin ini memiliki pisau bidang bawah yg
diam, & pisau atas yg bergerak. Kala mesin dalam keadaan bergerak ke-2 pisau ini bekerja layaknya gunting yg memotong pinggiran kain, maka membuahkan sudut kain yg rapi & bagus. Mesin overlock ini bisa pula dimanipulasi jadi kombinasi safetystitch/obras (overlock) yg membuahkan jahitan rantai, hiasan sekaligus jahitan obras dalam satu kali kerja.
An overlock machine is a high-speed machine used to trim garment edges by overlocking them in a single operation. This machine has a stationary lower blade and a moving upper blade. When the machine is in motion, these two blades act like scissors, cutting the fabric edges, creating neat, well-defined corners. This overlock machine can also be manipulated as a safety stitch/overlock combination, producing chain stitches, decorative stitches, and overlock stitches in one operation.


Memasang Jarum Obras

Kiat pemasangan jarum mesin obras yg berbentuk bulat terhadap bidang atasnya nyaris sama secara memasang jarum mesin jahit biasa. Yaitu dgn melonggarkan sekrup tiang jarum, seterusnya memasukkan jarum hingga keatas bersama menggunakan penjepit (tang). Elemen yg mesti diperhatikan yakni posisikan jarum dgn bidang cembung berada dibagian belakang. Sesudah jarum terpasang dgn benar kemudian pasang kembali skrup penguat jarum serta kencangkan kembali.
Installing an Overlock 
Needle The method for installing a round overlock needle on the top is almost the same as installing a regular sewing machine needle. Loosen the needle post screw, then insert the needle all the way to the top using pliers. The important thing to remember is to position the needle with the convex side facing the back. Once the needle is properly installed, reinstall the needle fixing screw and tighten it.

Memasang Benang Mesin Obras

Buat ubah benang ke overlock machine, sehingga benang dicabut dari jarum selanjutnya ditukar dgn warna yg diharapkan. Longgarkan bidang tension biar benang bakal lepas, tidak dengan gangguan. Pastikan bahwa benang sudah aman & memiliki simpul-simpul yg pass kecil maka mampu melintasi looper. Sedangkan untuk mesin obras benang tiga, benang yg dapat difungsikan pun berjumlah tiga. Benang mula-mula terletak dibagian bawah depan mesin obras, benang ke-2 ialah benang atas yg dimasukkan kepada jarum atas, sedangkan benang ke-3 terletak di bidang samping kiri mesin.
Threading an Overlock Machine 
To change the thread on an overlock machine, remove the thread from the needle and then replace it with the desired color. Loosen the tensioner so the thread can unwind without any interference. Ensure the thread is secure and has small enough knots to allow it to pass through the looper. For a three-thread overlock machine, there are three threads that can be used. The first thread is located at the bottom front of the overlock machine, the second thread is the upper thread inserted into the upper needle, and the third thread is located on the left side of the machine.


Mengatur Tegangan Benang

Bila hasil obrasan kurang rapi atau kurang bagus sehingga sektor tegangan benangnya mesti diubah. Utk melonggarkan benang sektor tegangan benang mesti diputar kearah kiri sedangkan buat mengencangkan benang tegangan benang mesti diputar kerarah berlawanan adalah ke kanan. Tapi jikalau hasil obrasan benang bidang depan terlampaui pendek, sehingga tegangan benang terhadap bidang depan mesti dilonggarkan bersama trik memutarnya kearah kiri.
Adjusting Thread Tension 
If the overlock stitch is not neat or does not look good, the thread tension section must be adjusted. To loosen the thread, the thread tension section must be turned to the left, while to tighten the thread, it must be turned in the opposite direction, to the right. However, if the overlock thread on the front side is too short, the thread tension on the front side must be loosened by turning it to the left.

Pindai Pisau Mesin Obras

Sama Seperti halnya gunting tajam yg berfungsi buat memotong kain, pisau yg terdapat di mesin obras pula mesti tajam. Penggantian pisau mesin obras yg udah tumpul ialah salah satu kiat yg mampu dilakukan sesring mungkin utk merawat mesin obras agar bekerja dengan baik & membuahkan jahitan yg optimal.
Scan the Overlock Machine Blade 
Just like sharp scissors for cutting fabric, the blade on an overlock machine must also be sharp. Replacing a dull overlock machine blade is one way to maintain your overlock machine frequently, ensuring it works properly and produces optimal stitches.

Mengobras Kain

Seterusnya letakkan bahan yg bakal diobras dengan cara memasukan pinggiran bahan lewat bawah sepatu obras hingga kira-kira pinggiran kain dapat terpotong sedikit oleh pisau yg terdapat pada mesin obras. Injak bidang pedalnya dgn perlahan, pakai tangan kiri utk memegang kain yg belum diobras & tangan kanan memegang kain yg sudah diobras.
Overlocking Fabric 
Next, place the material to be overlocked by inserting the edge of the material under the overlock foot until the edge of the fabric is slightly trimmed by the serger's blade. Gently press the pedal, using your left hand to hold the un-overlocked fabric and your right hand to hold the overlocked fabric.

Jikalau aktivitas mengobras telah selesai setelah itu sisa hasil obrasan dibagian tepi bahan dipotong. Cabut kabel dynamo & serentak bersihkan sisa-sisa benang atau potongan kain memakai kuas mungil atau vacuum cleaner utk menyedot sisa-sisa kain yg masuk kedalam sela-sela meja mesin jahit seterusnya minyaki mesin bersama minyak mesin obras dulu letakkan kain perca di bawah sepatu mesin obras.
Once the overlocking process is complete, trim off any excess stitching on the edges of the material. Unplug the dynamo and clean any remaining thread or fabric scraps using a small brush or vacuum cleaner to remove any remaining fabric that has gotten into the gaps between the sewing machine's table. Next, oil the machine with overlock machine oil and place the scrap fabric under the overlock machine's foot.








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